losing with a straight flush
I played a $1.25 45 seat tourney today. I was doing quite well, always managing to stay ahead of the curve (my ‘Q’ was always >1).
Early on in the tourney, I remember calling from the small blind position when the button limped in. I had 55 and the big blind checked.
The flop came 557, I flopped quads!
(I actually tried to practice not showing it, even though this was online poker.)
I checked, and it checked all around.
The turn was a queen.
I checked, and Big Blind bet 150. We both called.
The river was a 2, and I bet 200, which was called by the big blind only. He showed a Queen for two pair.
Not a huge pot for such a huge hand.
I saw two more times someone hitting quads. The first was three nines showing on the board, with A9 in the hole, and the third was also pocket 5s hitting 55x on the flop. (She more than doubled up with her effort).
I wonder the odds of quad 5s on the flop twice in one tourney.
I got knocked out in 13th place with a monster hand.
The hand summary is as follows:
Full Tilt Poker Game #13242215407: $1 + $0.25 Sit & Go (98129591), Table 1 – 200/400 – No Limit Hold’em – 19:42:05 ET – 2009/07/06
Seat 1: 2totry2 (8,137)
Seat 2: Dargismo (3,636)
Seat 3: Ari-Mkd (2,105)
Seat 5: lol007lol (7,644)
Seat 7: SmokeyGun (1,650)
Seat 9: bluebehir (5,586)
bluebehir posts the small blind of 200
2totry2 posts the big blind of 400
The button is in seat #7
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to bluebehir [7d Ts]
Dargismo folds
Ari-Mkd folds
lol007lol folds
SmokeyGun folds
bluebehir calls 200
2totry2 checks
*** FLOP *** [Td 8h Jd]
bluebehir bets 800
2totry2 calls 800
*** TURN *** [Td 8h Jd] [8d]
bluebehir bets 1,200
2totry2 raises to 2,400
bluebehir calls 1,200
*** RIVER *** [Td 8h Jd 8d] [9d]
bluebehir bets 1,986, and is all in
2totry2 calls 1,986
*** SHOW DOWN ***
bluebehir shows [7d Ts] a straight flush, Jack high
2totry2 shows [5d Qd] a straight flush, Queen high
2totry2 wins the pot (11,172) with a straight flush, Queen high
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 11,172 | Rake 0
Board: [Td 8h Jd 8d 9d]
Seat 1: 2totry2 (big blind) showed [5d Qd] and won (11,172) with a straight flush, Queen high
Seat 2: Dargismo didn’t bet (folded)
Seat 3: Ari-Mkd didn’t bet (folded)
Seat 5: lol007lol didn’t bet (folded)
Seat 7: SmokeyGun (button) didn’t bet (folded)
Seat 9: bluebehir (small blind) showed [7d Ts] and lost with a straight flush, Jack high
It’s not every day you can lose with a straight flush. I guess I was never getting away from that hand, although I could have folded it preflop or on the turn, if I wasn’t getting great odds to call (and didnt put him on a flush, which I had not yet done).
I was a bit concerned that nobody even seemed to notice a straight flush got beaten by another straight flush though. That sort of thing should make people sit up and notice. Well, people who play poker, at least.
Crazy poker game
I just played a game of No Limit Texas Hold Em.
The buy in was $1 +$0.25, so it wasn’t high stakes. There were 18 players.
As per normal, I started folding hands early. I do that for two reasons, firstly to dodge the crazy hands people usually play early on, but also to present a tight table image to those who take notice.
But I won a couple hands early, I think my first raise with AQ stole the blinds, my next winning hand I won by betting on the flop.
I quickly found myself in 3rd place of 15, and was content to sit and fold my way to final table. But I kept getting hands.
Not monster hands, like AA through TT or AK suited or anything, but things like… Ks5s on the Big blind, and hitting the nut flush draw on the flop, and the flush on the turn.
Also, once we were getting low handed, I noticed that the player on my left was sitting out, so I capitalised on that. Instead of 6 handed, we were 5 handed, and I adjusted accordingly, raising with hands like A8o second to act, or limping on the button with 75, etc to go heads up with big blind.
But I kept hitting straights and such, and I knocked a few people out.
Then I stole some pots, and then I hit a few more hands, and so on.
Next thing I knew I had about 9000 in chips, we were playing “five” handed (four handed and my player to the left sitting out) so I was playing and raising and winning almost every hand.
Then when I knocked out two more players, we were put into the final table, I had about 12000 in chips.
Nobody else had more than 2000.
And I folded quite a few hands, but I will wager nobody noticed any of those, because my raises pre flop were always pot sized, and I could do it with any two cards – and often did so.
KJo was an easy raise, and I could bet into aces on the board.
Even when I was paying people, I didn’t notice a dent. But when I won, I cleaned up.
And I was winning a lot.
The final heads up I had nearly 23000, and the next guy had just over 4000.
And then, even though we muscled for several hands, he kept drawing out on me.
Soon he had 7000, and 9000, and then we were nearly even – about 15 to 11.
I kept setting up plays, which he would fall for, and then win by luck.
On one hand, he outplayed me, for me to double him up, leaving me with 7.5K
I hit two pair on the flop, and he hit a four outer on the river to knock me out.
So even though I was a monster stack the entire game, I still managed to come in at second place.
Poker can be a weird game.
I play poker online at full tilt. I mostly play fake poker for play money.
I have around 500,000 play dollars to gamble with, and I buy in to sit n gos for 10,000.
Managing a bank roll means that you can spend up to 5% of your bank roll on a single table. However, full tilt only offers sit n gos for 10,000 or then you can jump up to 100,000 buy in.
It’s a huge leap, and currently it is slow work improving with 10K sit n go tables, with slow prizes. I’d need a million or two before justifying the larger game. And this will take months and months to achieve – if at all!
So when I get 550K I take a gamble and play a 100K game. If I lose, I’m down to 450K and its easy to get back to my 500K benchmark. If I win… I have some room to maneuvre. I came second one time recently when doing this, but lost the next few games to bring me back where I started.
The best I’ve had this bank roll was actually 2 million, about a year or two ago. Foolishly, it seems, I spent 1 million of that trying to convert play money to real money. I missed out both times. The game was a buy in of 500,000 play money, and the reward is the top $40 get a few US dollars. I tried buying in when the numbers seemed low, but there was always last minute spikes of a few hundred players. It seemed to make just enough of a difference.
As my first blog outlines, I once tried my luck with real cash, but US$5 didn’t go far. It left me with 40 cents that I couldn’t find anywhere to spend.
It was my birthday recently. A friend whom I relay poker hands to made a deposit into my account for US$15.
Excitedly, I stepped back into the realm of gambling for cash.
I was a little dismayed at first, as I lost (usually on the bubble) my early games. I was down to about $7 before I started to win!
Getting it back to $15 felt good, but getting it to $30 felt better. I actually played a couple larger $1 games and made the cash, winning one for $17. I played a $2 shoot out and came second there.
The highest my bank roll has seen so far is $35, which almost justifies playing regular $2 games.
So I tried a couple. And lost. Still at around $29 dollars, I tried a couple very large $1 games, with $1600 up for first place. The top 1080 players make their cash back or more.
Yep, got knocked out each time.
I’ve dropped down to the $1 games again, because I’m back down to $21.31.
I’m still ahead based on the original deposit, but I’ve just lost $14 straight.
It’s kinda depressing.
I’m having trouble navigating players who just get lucky more often than I do. These games tend to be “all in” affairs, where if you wanna take a stab you have to be prepared to go all in.
Playing poker like that is much like a lottery. Well, a lottery where only 9 players can enter, and someone wins it all each and every time.
So it’s slightly better odds than a lottery, but the problem is if you lose (as you often will) you’re felted.
I guess I’m not bad at dodging bullets, seeing as I’ve actually done OK, but it will be nice if I can ever get out of these low entry no limit games.
The Dragon’s Hoard
This post is mostly the rules of the game I’m creating, partly descriptive of said game.
Game contents
The game consists of the following components.
One gameboard.
One dragon.
One dragon token.
48 adventurer tokens (2 each of F1, F2, R1, R2, S1, S2; all come in each of four colours)
A token of each colour to mark each player’s game colour, and a token each for wealth and fame.
A deck of action cards
A deck of treasure cards
A deck of search cards
A deck of magic items
A deck of spell cards
3 decks of adventurer cards (one each for fighters, rogues, and spellcasters)
20 Focus counters
12 stat modifier counters
X life counters (enough for the healthiest 12 adventurers to be alive at the same time.)
12 corpse counters. These will be in pairs – one to mark the location and one to mark the contents at that location.
Setup:
Place the dragon in the centre of the board, facing any chosen direction.
Place your fame counters on zero, and your wealth counters on 24. (Subject to change.)
Choose one player to be the first player. This player takes the dragon token. Beginning with this player, each player takes one adventurer by choosing a card from any of the adventurer decks. Continue clockwise until you have three adventurers each. You may have up to two of any single type of adventurer.
For each adventurer you draw, pay the hiring cost, and advance your fame accordingly.
You have one chance to purchase equipment for your adventurers before they begin their quest.
After you have drawn three adventurers, you may purchase any number of cards from the magic item deck (or should I distinguish a shop deck, comprised of smaller magic items?), at a cost of 3 points of wealth per card. When you choose to cease such purchases, you must allocate each of these cards to be carried or equipped by your adventurers, as you desire.
Place the adventurers on any of the available entrances, and keep the reference cards visible on the table.
(Use your tokens labelled F, R or S to represent these adventurers.)
Beginning with the player holding the dragon token, deal or draw five cards each from the action deck. The limit throughout the game is seven cards in hand. You may not exceed this limit by drawing cards.
Turn Order
The player holding the dragon token begins the game, and in his turn takes two actions. Each player in clockwise order then take similar turns. When play returns to the player holding the dragon token, he replaces his turn with a dragon turn, where he activates the dragon once and forfeits his normal two actions. Once he has done so, he passes the dragon token clockwise, and the player receiving the token becomes the new player 1.
Adventurers
There are three adventurer decks. Fighters, rogues, and spellcasters.
Fighter deck is comprised of many fighter types, such as archers, heavily armoured combatants, nimble warriors, dwarvish axebearers, maybe a monk or samurai, and anything else I come up with. They all have a defining trait, and their cost reflects how valuable to your team they will be. If you’re lucky, you’ll get an expensive famous warrior who will increase your fame just for hiring him.
Rogues will be any devious character I can conceive. Mostly cutpurses and pickpockets and such, but I’ll also throw in a bard or a jester, or maybe even a ninja. Or more.
Spellcasters will be all flavours of magician, sorcerer, elementalist, summoner, and even cleric. One magician will be a diviner, and will have the ability to view decks of cards and hands of other players. He may not feel as valuable as a firemage but played correctly, he might do just as well.
I might even throw a necromancer into the mix. We’ll see. I’ll have to see if I can raise corpses or something!
Adventurer stats.
Speed – how fast they can move. This will be adversely affected by armour.
Attack – the ability to strike an enemy. The Damage value will be attack plus weapon modifiers.
Agility – the ability to avoid attack. This value is improved in a defend action. The Defence value will be agility plus armour modifiers.
Strength – how many items they can hold in their pack and still be effective in their skills
Search – your ability to discover hidden objects, effects or actions.
Stealth – your ability to manoeuvre without being detected.
Concentration – how many focus tokens you can use.
Health – the number of wounds they can absorb until death.
Magicians will have a spell repertoire available. These might be spells that they begin with, or spells that they can gain during their gameplay.
Magicians might cost more than the average adventurer. Some magicians will expire spells once cast, but be able to discover new spells during play. Others will be able to repeat spells but run out completely until they rest or return to town.
Cards
The largest deck is the action deck.
This deck is comprised of two main types of card. The foremost are adventurer action boosters. These cards will improve the ability to fight, or improve the ability to take treasure, or improve any number of actions in any number of ways. They will never be detrimental to other players, only helpful to your own adventurers.
The second type of card will be dragon actions. You may play one dragon action card when it is your turn to take a dragon turn. This type of card boosts the abilities of the dragon to slay opposing adventurers and protect its treasure.
Treasure cards represent the dragon hoard. When you steal from the dragon, you earn a loot card.
These cards are held in your hand of cards, and the cardback is identical to an action card.
The treasure deck is the game clock. When there is no more treasure in the dragon’s hoard, there is no reason to return.
If you manage to get all your adventurers back to town, you secure your treasure, and increase your wealth by their combined value. You may then send your healed adventurers back in to continue the quest.
Search deck.
This deck will have random events that occur when adventurers search caverns and passages for misplaced or hidden treasures. These cards will include cards that allow you to find equipment or magical items but it will also have adverse encounters, like a group of wandering orcs that attack. There will also be search cards that show ‘nothing’. Sometimes when you search a room there is nothing to be found.
If you are able to search well, you draw multiple cards and choose the resultant card. The card must be shown to all players and resolved. Anything found is placed in the pack of the searching adventurer, unless stated otherwise.
Turn actions.
On your turn you may take two actions. They may be any combination of the following.
Recruit: – Hire a new adventurer if you have less than three. This adventurer arrives at any chosen entrance at the beginning of your next turn.
Rest: – Discard any number of cards from your hand, and draw action cards until your hand size is seven cards. But discard all focus tokens you have on all your adventurers.
or, Activate an adventurer.
When you activate an adventurer you may have them perform one of the following.
Move – the adventurer moves a number of spaces equal to his speed. During your movement, you may spend one point of speed to give an item from your pack to an adjacent adventurer. You may do this as many times as you require, providing you have surplus points in speed remaining. These items are placed in the pack of the receiving adventurer.
Attack – the adventurer may move a number of spaces equal to half his speed value (round down) and then attack an opposing adventurer within his range when he finishes his movement. See combat for further details.
Defend – the adventurer improves his agility value by 2 until your next turn. If he is attacked, he returns an attack of his own.
Support – the adventurer may move a number of spaces equal to half his speed (round down), and then may provide support to any combat that takes place within his range, at any time until your next turn. See combat for further details.
Search – the player may draw a number of cards from the search deck equal to his search value (minimum zero). The character reveals and resolves the card. The agility and attack abilities are reduced by 2 when you search.
Cast – any spellcasting adventurer may cast an appropriate spell that they have in their repertoire.
Loot – grab any and all items that resides in this current location. These items go into the looting adventurer’s pack.
Equip – take one item from their pack and equip it. This may include unequipping items of your choice.
Steal – Thieves may attempt to steal from other players’ adventurers. To do so, the thief must be no more than one square from a target adventurer.
All characters may steal from the dragon hoard if they are adjacent to it and you hold less than seven cards in your hand. On a successful attempt, draw one card from the treasure deck and place it in your hand. Improve your fame by one point every time you successfully steal from the dragon hoard.
You may only activate a single adventurer once on any turn. If you activate two adventurers in the same turn, then your third adventurer gains one focus counter. If you take a rest action in any turn, you lose all focus counters on all of your adventurers.
Focus Counters
An adventurer may hold a number of focus counters equal to his concentration value. These are gained by not being activated when two other adventurers of your party were.
Each focus token held adds one point to the next ability they use, and then are consumed. Such tokens are returned to the available pool of focus counters.
For example, if a rogue is not activated for two consecutive turns, but both other adventurers are activated both turns, the rogue would now have two focus points.
Here is the impact of two focus tokens for each of his action choices.
Move – His speed is increased by two.
Attack – His attack value is increased by two.
Defend – His agility is increased by two, over and above the increase already given. His attack value is not so increased if he is attacked.
Support – His attack value is increased by two before the penalties of supporting are applied.
Search – His search value is increased by two, allowing him to choose from two additional cards.
Cast – The range or the damage of the spell is increased by two, where possible. The choice is given to the caster which benefit is gained.
Loot – No benefit
Equip – Regardless the number of focus tokens, only one extra item may be equipped.
Steal – The stealth ability is increased by two. Stealing from the hoard has no benefit.
If he was attacked while he had two focus tokens, his agility would be increased by 2 and he would lose his focus tokens.
Dragon Turn
When a player is about to take his second turn while holding the dragon token, his turn is replaced by a dragon turn.
In this turn, he is allowed to activate the dragon in an attempt to protect the dragon hoard from opposing adventurers.
The player may first move the dragon 90 degrees left or right if he desires. The dragon never leaves the hoard, however.
If the player holds any dragon action cards, he may play one such card as the dragon’s attack.
If he has no such card, or chooses not to play it, he may use the dragon’s standard attack.
(The standard attack is a claw attack in an adjacent front-facing square.)
The attack is resolved immediately.
He may withhold the dragon’s attack if he chooses to do so.
After he has performed the dragon turn, he passes the dragon token clockwise and his turn ends.
Theft.
When you attempt to steal from an adventurer, compare the stealth of your adventurer to the search of your target. The highest value wins. Each player may play one action card from their hand or one spell to boost their ability. The thief plays their card first.
If the thief is successful, they may choose to take one card randomly from either the adventurer’s pack or the player’s hand (in an attempt to steal dragon hoard terasure.)
A stolen equipment card goes into the pack of the thief; an action/treasure card goes into the thief player’s hand.
All hand and adventurer strength limitations apply. A card that cannot be kept is given back to the target player.
If the thief was unsuccessful, now the target gets to make an attack against the thief out of turn order. This is considered a free action.
Combat
When a character makes an attack, he has the chance to deal wounds to that character.
There are two ways to make an attack. Ranged or Melee are physical attacks, and spells are magical attacks.
Magical attacks are made by spellcasters. The range of the attack is the range of the spell. The target character must be within a number of spaces equal to or smaller than this range.
There are two types of magical spells that can be used as a magical attack.
Some spells, such as lightning bolt, attack a character based on agility and can be avoided, to avoid all damage.
Penetration spells, such as fireball cannot be avoided, and deal damage based on the range and the armour of the target.
Quite often, spells can target multiple opponents. Spells can not tell the difference between friend and foe. They harm everyone equally.
Magical attacks usually have a range much larger than physical attacks, but provide melee counter attacks if in range.
Focus counters applied to the spellcaster can affect either the casting range of the spell, or affect the attack value of the spell.
agility spells
Spell attack + focus modifier > target agility + card modifier – armour penalty = target takes damage of spell.
Spell attack + focus modifer target armour + card modifier = wounds taken by target.
Physical attacks have a range dependant on the weapon used.
Physical attacks can be defended against, but they can also be supported by other adventurers.
However, in physical combat, it can be possible and more likely that both combatants attack at the same time.
Supporting characters must be within range of the enemy adventurer, not the adventurer they support.
Their attacks are not fully effective, as they are merely providing distraction and cover for the allied combatant.
Hence, their attack and defence values are halved. However, the supporting adventurers do not take damage, unless they were the target of the attack.
Add all combat modifiers, including weapons, armour, action cards, spells, and focus counters, before halving for the support value.
To resolve a physical combat:
For the attacker,
Attack + weapon + spell modifers + action card + support attack + focus counters = Damage
For the target of the attack,
Armour + agility + defend modifier + spell modifiers + action card + support defence + focus counters – search penalty = defence
Damage – defence = wounds taken, minimum zero.
If the target was attacking or defending in their previous turn, they are allowed to counter attack – even if the attack made against them kills them. These attacks happen simultaneously, but for sake of clarification, we resolve them separately.
An attack only lasts for one round of combat. Further combat may take place in the future turns of either combatant, or such a combatant may choose to flee.
Character death
Characters will die, frequently. Usually by spells, traps, monsters, the dragon, or combat with other adventurers.
If yours dies, remove all focus or stat modifying counters from the adventurer card. The corpse remains at the adventurer’s last position, and holds the equipment once held and worn. Use a corpse marker to identify the location of the corpse, and another to mark the equipment at that location. Place the adventurer card in the discarded adventurer pile. Remove the corpse markers if the corpse is looted.
Your party size is now reduced, but on a brighter note you are now allowed to take a recruit action during your turn.
A recruited character begins ‘in town’ and you are allowed to purchase one magic item at a cost of three wealth. However, that item must be carried or equipped by the newly recruited character. This character may equip the item as a free action.
Returning to town
Any adventurer that exits the board through an entrance has made it back to town. Their health is restored, the character may sell any equipment being worn or carried, may purchase one item, and you might be able to replenish the spells of certain spellcasters.
You must take a ‘recruit’ action to bring them back onto the board, or the adventurer may wait until the remainder of the party escapes the caverns.
Increasing your score
When all living party members are in town, as one of your actions you may convert any treasure cards held in your hand into wealth and you may convert your fame into wealth. You may then redraw your hand back to five cards.
You are permitted to change the equipment and carried items between your adventurers, as you see fit.
Your following action must be a ‘recruit’ action where you place all of your adventurers back on the board at any entrance(s) of your choice.
Fame points
Fame can be converted to wealth when your entire party is in town. To do so, decrease your fame to 1, and increase your wealth by the following chart. Your first five points of fame are worth nothing.
If your Fame was:
- between 6 and 10 you gain 1 wealth.
- between 11 and 15 you gain 2 wealth.
- between 16 and 22 you gain 4 wealth.
- on 23 you gain 6 wealth.
Fame cannot be increased more than 23.
Once the last treasure has been removed from the dragon’s hoard, or when any deck of adventurers is depleted, you may not convert your fame into wealth.
Ending the game
When the last treasure is taken from the hoard, all players must expose the treasure in their hands. These cards still count in your hand size. The game ends when all loot has made it to town. (Shuffle your hand before any theft attempts are made from you!)
The winner of the game is the player with the highest wealth. Ties are broken by fame points.
Live werewolf game in the works
This game is spontaneous creativity after an evening of f2f werewolf. I want to take the game in my local game store to the next level.
I will advertise this one in advance, but note that the ad will be pinned in my FLGS.
LOOKING FOR DEDICATED WEREWOLF ENTHUSIASTS
This will be a night of werewolf taken to the next level. Please recognise that this will be a more difficult game of lies and deduction.
ROLES:
Wolf: 2
Vampire: 2
Witch: 2
Necromancer: 1
Priest: 1
Wolf hunter: 1
Vampire Hunter: 1
Villagers: 3 or 5
Optional – Lovers: 2
Total: 13-15
Rule adjustments:
1. The dead go back to sleep. They are not allowed to view the night actions once they die.
2. Each role might have more action choices than normal.
3. The dead can come back to life.
4. Winning conditions apply differently for some teams.
ROLES:
Wolf.
Night actions.
The wolves know each other, and can choose one of three actions.
Attack and feed, infect, or abstain.
To attack and feed, the wolf points at the victim.
To abstain, the wolf covers their mouth instead of pointing.
To infect, the wolf covers their mouth AND points at a victim.
If the wolves cannot agree on a target, no kill occurs. All wolves abstain.
If all wolves abstain, no kill occurs.
If all non-abstaining wolves choose to infect, the target becomes a wolf.
Any player that becomes a wolf will be tapped on the shoulder. They do not wake until the next night, but they are considered a wolf at dawn. No kill occurs and wolves are considered to have abstained.
Vampires, witches and undead cannot become wolves.
If one or more wolves choose to attack and feed, but others choose to infect that same target, the infecting wolves are considered to have attacked but not fed, ie abstained.
Any wolf that abstains two nights in a row is revealed dead at dawn.
Wolves win if they reach a clear majority of the group (ie more than half.)
Vampire.
Night actions.
The vampires know each other and can choose one of three actions.
Attack and feed, infect, or abstain.
See the description for wolves.
Wolves cannot become vampires.
Vampires are considered undead for the necromancer’s win condition.
Witch.
Night actions.
Each night, the witches may choose one of two actions.
View one deceased player, or dose a player.
The witches may view any deceased player, and learn if they were a wolf or not.
If the player was a wolf, they have the ingredients to make a witches brew.
The witches choose who to view by pointing at their target.
If the witches own a witches brew, they may choose to dose a player with their brew.
They indicate this by pointing at their target and pointing to their mouth.
If all witches agree, this player becomes a witch, and are tapped on the shoulder.
If the witches dose a wolf or undead (including vampire), the player does not become a witch.
The witches win if there are ever four living witches after a lynch.
Necromancer.
Night action.
Each night, the necromancer may choose one deceased player to raise their corpse as a zombie of their former self.
Only humans become zombies, so deceased wolves and vampires remain deceased. Witches can become zombies.
When a player is raised from the dead, they will be tapped on the shoulder. These players are now undead, and win if the necromancer wins.
The necromancer and zombies all awaken together on following nights, but only the necromancer makes any decisions.
The necromancer and his zombies win when the undead are in the majority. This includes vampires, but vampires do not win this way.
The necromancer is not undead. He can be infected or be purified as a villager after his death.
The priest.
Night actions.
Each night, the priest may choose one deceased player to raise their corpse as a purified human. This player now wins if the village wins.
Zombies, wolves and vampires may not become villagers. The priest can be infected or become a zombie. The priest can purify deceased witches.
The priest is not infected by wolves or vampires.
If the priest and necromancer choose the same corpse, the player remains deceased, but as a deceased zombie.
Wolf Hunter:
Night actions.
Each night the wolf hunter chooses one player. That player will receive a tap on the shoulder.
If that player was the target of a wolf infection, he prevents the infection. The target does not become a wolf.
If the target was attacked by a single wolf, the wolf is slain instead.
Otherwise no action occurs.
When all wolves are destroyed, the wolf hunter receives a tap on the shoulder.
The wolf hunter wins with the village.
Vampire Hunter.
See wolf hunter.
Villagers.
No night actions. Must remain aware of which phase in which their shoulder is tapped.
Lovers.
Know each other. If one dies, the other always dies on the following dawn.
Can be otherwise affected as any human.
The village wins when no other team remain.
An hour to kill, killed in no time.
I just played pot limit hold em to pass the time today.
I had lost a few sit n goes so wanted to mix it up.
I started playing tight, as I always do, but the table was tight and I took advantage of that.
Not to mention I kept hitting trips.
I ended up playing a very loose and aggressive game, betting into almost every pot.
I sat down with 20K and after 120 hands I had 86K, and quickly got it to 60K and then slowly creeped up to 86K
Statistics for 119 Hands
Street Saw Saw/Total
Flop 93 78%
Turn 59 50%
River 46 39%
Showdown 34 29%
Street Won Won/Saw Won/Total
Pre-flop 4 3% 3%
Flop 19 20% 16%
Turn 5 8% 4%
River 5 11% 4%
Showdown 20 59% 17%
So I won 53 hands in 119, which is higher than average for me.
I felt really good how I’d adjusted my play to suit the table, and then some new guy sat down to my right.
Two guys all in, me and he had them covered. The flop was K44. I had K9.
He bet into it, I called. The turn 5. He bet the huge pot. I had an inkling he had the 4 but I called.
He had the 4.
Then the next hand I had KQ, and hit the KQ on the flop, he hit a set though, and cleaned me up.
So then I had only 20K last hand.
I had AQ, and hit a Q high board. He had JJ and hit a J on the river.
Lost it all in three hands.
Stealing the blinds
I tend not to bluff.
I have played enough hands now to see what happens to me, and others, when I or they bluff – they lose.
I think it was Dan Harrington who taught me that you can’t bluff a novice. If they can’t imagine you have what you’re representing – and then fold a hand not quite as good as that (but better than what you have) then you’ve only cost yourself more chips.
On the other hand, an expert would likely have such a good read on me and the situation to know he actually has me beat, statistically or otherwise.
So when I put my chips in, I usually think I have the best hand or a good chance to get there. Most of the time, mind you, I still want everyone to fold. That is a pot you don’t have to earn.
There-in lies the allure of the bluff. Sure, it’s all about having more gustre than your opponent. That game of chicken, making the enemy stand down to your brute force, sly wit, or intimidating threat of taking all their cash. Sure, for most people, that’s what bluffing is about – I guess – but for *me*, it’s about winning something I didn’t earn with the minimal effort. Cunning.
In other words, I like to bluff when I think it’s a sure win. Some might say it’s not really bluffing if it’s a sure win, but anyone who calls usually has me beat. So I wait til they’ll fold before I even bet.
I’ve never been good at stealing blinds.
Phil Gordon tells me that to make a profit on my blinds, (because I intend to lose them usually) I need to bluff four times every three rounds to steal the blinds. Then I make a profit of one and a half bets.
Anything else on top of that is just gravy.
And every book I’ve ever read tells me that a standard play is to try steal the blinds when you have the button.
But as Phil again points out, that play is so standard, that it’s expected. Nobody raised until the button? Well he’s just gonna raise to scare us all off, right? So Phil says he makes *his* steals from the cutoff – one before the button. But who hasn’t read Phil’s book? We *all* know that’s now the new standard.
And when I raise from these positions, I always get called. Either by a good hand or by junk in the blinds – that usually hit and smash me.
So unless I have a great but speculative hand, or a monster hand (AK or AQ suited, for the former, AA,KK,QQ for the latter) I won’t raise from those seats. Instead I try to play small and hit hard, to take a bigger pot or get out early.
So why would I be writing this blog if I don’t have anything to say on this matter?
What I’ve discovered is that because I play a recognisably straight forward tight game that the only place I can steal the blinds is when I am under the gun. It really is harder to pick my spot, and I don’t usually do it with *absolute* junk, but quite often a standard raise – by me – from under the gun takes the pot. I’ve had players fold hands like Ace-Jack suited with only a Queen Ten in my hand.
Of course, this won’t work against any table with a fresh untutoured player on it – all players on the table need to recognise a tight player, and know how to play in position, and what it means to play out of position.
But when I get that table, I can steal my blinds back. I don’t get to steal four times every three rounds, but I get one or two.
And when I *finally* get called, I know I’m up against a monster. If I don’t hit the flop HARD, I bow out, get caught bluffing, and change gears. If I *do* hit the flop hard, I actually get paid for the effort.
And maybe when I get my AA under the gun, I’ll get a caller too.
Anyway, if I’ve only discovered one thing for myself in poker, or invented a play, it’s that I steal blinds from under the gun.
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